Over The Edge

(Heading) down highway 62, the Twentynine Palms Highway, and roll into the morning sun 

toward the east, away from town, and away from everything.

They don't call Twentynine Palms "The Edge" for nothing!

Very little traffic and the already thin signs of population promptly begin to get thinner.

Lots of open spaces dominating a patchy scrim of homes and cabins.

Out past Dale Dry Lake, and things finally just gave up altogether, 

and the last sign of human habitation, aside from the asphalt we were sailing down at good speed,

went out with a whimper and from then on we were over the edge

and it was hard-ass creosote and saharan mustard desert, 

rimmed by hard-ass bare rocky mountains and nothing else.

James McClaren, 16streets.com

I just happened across this blog by James McClaren that describes so well what it feels like heading east out of 29 Palms. Coincidentally, it's the same drive I make to get out to my secrete solitude spot in the "hard ass bare rocky mountains" east of 29 Palms. 

Last week I left you with this photo:

I was smitten with this rock formation and its beautiful little alcove (can't see it from this angle) and the unusual rocky erosions (below).

It was so interesting and unusual, it made me feel like I discovered something significant, something rare that likely few others have seen. Thus fortified, I decided to continue exploring.

There were quite a few washes in this part of the desert, going all different directions. No human footprints anywhere! I had to be careful to keep my bearing so as not to get turned around. I was proceeding further than my planned hike and no longer following waypoints.

Rocks everywhere!!!

 This wash was a little harder to follow and filled with large rocks. A short distance ahead it opened up and branched left (west) and right (north). The north branch looked like it went on for a long distance, all the way out of the rocky mountains I was exploring and down to the bajada beyond.

A small triangular "window" rock.

Chomp Chomp Chomp!!

As I hiked further and further into this jumble of rocks, the rocky peaks became even more impressive and rugged!

I love this view... a typical desert wash with rocky peaks on either side of me!

Finally, as I was heading back to (hopefully) find the top of the wash so I could make my way back to the Jeep, I had one of those jaw-dropping sights:

Do you see it?? From this angle, further away from my rocky alcove with the circular rocky erosions that I had been exploring, you can see a large cave or alcove on top of the rock with a huge opening. I was too close before to see it (compare this photo to photo #2), but I had been climbing literally right underneath it!

Lucky for me, the rocky slope was at an angle that made it possible to access my newly discovered "dome cave".

Hiking (partially on hands and knees) up to Dome Cave, I was treated to some spectacular views! The higher I got, the better the view.

Looking across at Dome Cave. Or maybe I should call it "Monster Dome?" Kind of looks like some kind of creature from this angle! This beautiful, large alcove comes complete with two side windows... a larger triangular-shaped window and a small porthole. Very cool!! Like other caves and alcoves in this area, no human footprints or sign of visitors. I wonder who else has discovered this amazing spot??

The two "windows" on the left hand side of the cave (facing out)

View out the small "porthole" window

Dome Cave opening is so large it's hard to capture in a single photograph. This is my attempt to manually stitch together two photos. Not perfect, but it gives you a good sense of what it looks and feels like sitting inside the cave. Incredible 360-degree views and absolute solitude!!

Can't resist sharing a few more view photos from Dome Cave. 

Yippee, I found it! Back in the wash and heading home (back to the Jeep). But this hike has one final surprise for me...

A nice big rattlesnake along the side of the wash. Thank goodness he/she gave me a nice, loud rattle well in advance to let me he/she was there! This was a dangerous time for a rattlesnake encounter. End of the hike, tired, just putting one foot in front of the other to get back to the Jeep, and not paying much attention to my surroundings. I actually said "thank you" out loud to the snake gods or whatever higher power might be listening and keeping me safe! All I had was my wide angle lens, and I wanted to keep a safe distance (10-12'), so not a great photo, but you get the idea!

With the discovery of Dome Cave, I would rank this hike, and this entire area, as one of my most interesting and memorable hikes ever!

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Desert Solitude

Solitude is defined as a state of being alone without being lonely, and can lead to self-awareness. The word carries the sense that you are alone by choice, and that it's peaceful and pleasant. All I know is that for me, alone-time on a desert hike is relaxing and calming, and is one of the best ways I know to recharge my battery and reduce stress. And there's a thrill when hiking in a remote area where few others have hiked. Why is that? Perhaps the thrill and anticipation that you might find something new and undiscovered? I think we all have a little bit of "explorer" in us. Which brings me to today's post.

I don't think I can get much more remote than this on a day hike. I'm going to keep the location secrete because I found some very cool rock formations and caves and I don't want to advertise their location. The location is not in Joshua Tree National Park, which is where I do most of my exploring.

Off we go!!!

The hike started on a less than thrilling note. The day turned out to be warmer than expected... a little too warm for a hike in this area! I had located this interesting looking wash that I wanted to explore on Google Earth, and had pictured one of those pretty desert washes that I commonly see in Joshua Tree. Turns out this area gets a LOT less rain than JTree. Even the creosote look sickly and stunted and barely alive. The photo above shows the entrance to the wash... not a pretty picture! But in a way, that's part of the allure. There's nothing here to attract hikers. Nothing here to attract attention. I've never seen a single blog post or published article about the area. Which in my warped, heat-stricken mind, means a greater chance of discovering something new!

A short distance into the wash I found these old shot-up barrels and some wood. Makes me wonder if there was some mining or other activity in the area. Although there appeared to be very limited human footprints in this wash, there were some faint prints that looked old. It was clear to me that very few people hike here.
  

Just past the old barrels I found this desert tortoise shell. At first I thought he was alive and just tucked inside. Unfortunately, it was just the shell. Not sure if he/she met its end naturally or by a predator. There is almost no greenery or dead grass in this part of the wash. Just straggly creosote and cats claw. I can't imagine how a tortoise would survive here.

Prior to my hike, I was careful to map out waypoints that I can view offline (since I didn't have cell coverage) during my hike. I also left a printed copy of my hiking itinerary with my wife. I noticed on Google Earth a number of side washes branching off the main wash that I wanted to explore.

Wow, check this out! While exploring side-wash #2 (or was it #3?), I stumbled upon this old picnic table! This side-wash was overgrown with cats claw... I had to bushwack to get into the area, and nobody had been here in a long time. This table looked like it had been sitting in the hot sun for years.

Cool old lantern. I wonder what the story is behind this stuff?? Near the table I also found the remains of an old camp table and makeshift outhouse. Someone must have camped in this little hidden side-wash on a regular basis, but likely many years ago. Another odd and likely unsolvable desert mystery!!

Continuing up the wash, the cats claw was getting thicker and harder to penetrate. Note to self: NEVER wear shorts when hiking in the desert, I don't care how hot it is! My legs and ankles were already bloody and scratched.

At this point, I was getting near the end of my planned hike. Just ahead the wash would get narrow and rocky. I thought about turning back and calling it a day. Although I had found some cool stuff, the area was not as pretty and photogenic as I was hoping for. But the explorer in me said "lets just go a little further and see what lies ahead!" I decided to climb out of the main wash and take a look around.

I was surprised (and pleased) to see things were relatively flat up above the wash. I was also pleased to see some clouds in the sky, which weren't around earlier and would enhance my photos. I found some really interesting rocks in this area (rocky crystals, clear quartz, rose quartz, etc). I'll definitely be going back to this spot in the future to explore more. Hope I can find it again!

I hadn't seen any human footprints in a while. Actually, a little ways back in the wash was the last human footprint I would see for the rest of the day! I was getting a strong sense of hiking in an area that is seldom explored and of desert solitude.

Looking back... The wash I had been hiking up (although hard to see) is on the left. I've followed it up for about a mile or so, and I'm standing on a rocky plateau up above the wash for this photo.

Up above the wash, the rock formations are getting prettier and more interesting.

I'm starting to see small caves and alcoves eroded into the rocks (a good sign). For me, the "holy grail" on a hike like this would be to discover one of three things: A natural stone arch, a large cave or alcove, or pictographs, petroglyphs, or other sign of Native American activity.

OK, this looks really interesting! Maybe the highlight of this hike. From this spot, I can see some very unusual rocky erosion up in that dark area. I can also spot a cave or alcove up there, although hard to tell how deep it goes. The big question is can I climb up without injuring myself??

I end up making the climb slowly and carefully. The above shot is a closer view. On the right, the rock reminds me of an ear! Center is some weird circular erosion. I've never seen anything quite like it before. And on the left is a very nice small cave or alcove behind two large rocks.

Here's a close-up of the strange circular rocky erosion.  

A view from inside the rocky alcove. Turns out it's not very deep, but wow, what a view!! The floor is fine sand and just has a few small critter prints. Footprints in a protected alcove like this would last a long time, so I know this spot hasn't been visited by a human in quite a while. Heck, who knows, maybe I'm the first??!

Thanks for joining me on this adventure. There's still a major discovery to be made on this hike, but will have to save it for my next post as I'm running out of time.

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Revisiting Samuelson's Rocks

I wanted to revisit the mysterious carved rocks of Joshua Tree, aka, "Samuelson's Rocks". My cousin and his daughter joined my on the hike and I was looking forward to showing them the area. I last posted about this fascinating spot about a year ago: Part 1 is here and Part 2 is here.

WAKE UP

YOU TAX AND

BOND SLAVES.

A POLITICIAN IS A BIRD

THAT GETS IN ON THE TAX

PAYORS POCKETBOOK FOR A FAT

RAKE OF AND HIS FREE KEEPS.

HE LEADS YOU BY THE NOOSE

WITH ONE HAND  WITH THE OTHER

HE DIGS IN YOUR POCKET

A FRIEND OF THE BANKER AND BIG

BUSINESS WHY?

Food for thought, spelling errors and all, with April 15 nearly here!! John Samuelson, a Swedish immigrant, carved these stones in 1927. This part of the desert would have been extremely remote, with little or no connection to the outside world. News probably spread word-of-mouth, and there would be very limited opportunity to "shoot the breeze" with others. Makes me wonder how Mr. Samuelson formed his opinions and ideas. A fascinating individual who liked to tell tall tales that stretch the limits of credibility. Some of Samuelson's stories were later published by author Erle Stanley Gardner (how many of you remember the TV show Perry Mason??). Gardner was a huge lover of the desert and used to find remote locations to do his writing. Just by coincidence, he was camping in the Quail Springs area (near what is now known as Samuelson's Rocks), met Samuelson, and over a few drinks, was so impressed with the man and his stories that he paid $20 to publish them!

A perfect day for a hike, with mild temperatures and beautiful cloud formations!

We paid a visit to the old rusty car...

Cousin Scott going for a ride!

We checked out the old collapsed homestead cabin (basement still intact!)...

Photo courtesy K. Wessel

From inside the "basement" or cellar, looking out. Somebody get me out of here!!

We even managed to find an old pump house in the area, which I had never seen before. I'll save that for a future post.

Finally reaching Samuelson's Rocks, we took turns resting on the old rusty bed springs. Although I have no proof, I like to imagine that this was Samuelson's old bed. Why would anyone haul this out to the middle of nowhere, except for Samuelson, who had a cabin on this very hill??

I can imagine Mr. Samuelson being totally inspired by the views from the top of his little hill. Perhaps that inspiration crept into his rocky inscriptions??

 THE MILK OF

HUMAN KINDNESS

AINT GOT THICK

CREAM ON IT FOR

ALL OF US

ASK HOOVER

GOD

MADE MAN

BUT HERY FORD

PUT WHEELS UNDER EM

THO A MASTER

OF THE GOLDEN RULE

HE MUST DIE

TO BE. APRRICIATED

The above carving is the toughest of the eight rock carvings to get to and is often missed. I ended up making the climb, with camera and fisheye lens in hand, but just couldn't get a decent shot (with a fisheye, you need to be really close to what you are shooting). Frustrated and perplexed, I ended up climbing further up the rocky hill so I was looking down over the top of the carved words.

An interesting and unique perspective!! Who knows, may be the first time Samuelson's Rocks has been photographed using a fisheye, and very likely the first upside down shot of one of the carved rocks!

MOTHER TIME

NEITHER WEALTH LAWS NOR ARMYS CAN STOP THE

HUMAN MIND FROM CREATING NEW OR EMPROVE UP ON

THE PRESENT DAY RELIGION AND GOVERMENT

WATER IS SAFT ONLY HARD IN THE CHEMICALLS

BUT WITH TIME THE OCEAN CAN GRIEND

THE HARDEST GRANIT TO A POWDERED SAND

SO WITH TIME WILL THE HUMAN RACE GRIEND

OUT ITS OWN DESTINYS REGARDLESS OF THE

OPPOSITION OR PARTY IN POWER

Same photo, but I used the lens correction function in Photoshop. It stretches the image so it goes from a circle to a rectangle with no vignette.

Of the eight mysterious carved rocks, this is the only one that John Samuelson signed and dated (1927).

"Twofer" shot, and one of my favorites.

The above two shots were taken on the hike back to the car. A great hike, and one I would definitely recommend.

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