Thursday, August 13, 2020

Coyote Hole: Petroglyph Paradise!

Coyote Hole is an area I've been avoiding. On the one hand, I've heard that there are many petroglyphs to be seen in the area, which is obviously a plus. But there are major downsides. The area is only about a mile from downtown Joshua Tree. It is well known by locals, and frequently visited. These are big negatives in my view. Over the years, there's been extensive graffiti. The best post I've seen that documents this was written by my friend Pat Tillett, and can be seen here. But be forewarned: It's depressing to see all the graffiti in this beautiful area. Pat also posts about the areas beauty and the petroglyphs here.

It was early May with temperatures already reaching into the '90s. I had a free afternoon, so granddaughter Lilly and I headed out to find Coyote Hole and hopefully find some Native American rock art. I did no research prior to the hike, so I had no idea where to find the petroglyphs.

Lilly and I find some faint petroglyphs on the rocks as we hike up the sandy wash.

More petroglyphs as we continue up the canyon. These are interesting, and some are clear while others are faded.
 
 


As we follow our way up the wash, the above two photos are more example of petroglyphs. These are the ones I'm spotting, but I have the distinct impression there are many others I am missing.
 
This hill of boulders is loaded with petroglyphs! I guess you'll have to take my word on this, but if you magnify the image and look closely, you can see multiple petroglyph panels all the way up to the top of the rocks. I wonder how Native Americans got up there to peck out all the petroglyphs? Truly petroglyph paradise. To photograph them, I would need to climb up on the rocks, and that wasn't an option today with my granddaughter. I hope to get back to this spot sometime to climb these boulders and photograph the petroglyphs.

As we reached the large, smooth boulders that surround the Coyote Hole area, we were totally AMAZED to see a trickle of water flowing down the rocks!
Ya, it wasn't a flowing stream, but any water in the desert (especially on a hot day like today) is worthy of celebration. And I can only imagine, back in the day when rainfall in the area was more plentiful, this area might have provided a reliable water source. The smooth stone surfaces are a sure sign of water flow. So it's not surprising the Native Americans valued the area and left their marks.
This might be a good time to mention the "Coyote Hole" name. Where Lilly is standing is where, according to legend, the coyotes come to dig for water. I can totally believe that. In fact, I've seen many holes dug in desert sand over the years in areas that look like there may be moisture. Also interesting, according to legend, is that men stood on the ground to carve out the petroglyphs up on the high rocks. Over the years, water has eroded the canyon and made it deeper and deeper, so now those carved rocks are high up off the ground. If this theory is true, it might also indicate the oldest pictrographs are the highest, and those close to the ground would be more recent.
 

“Chief Francisco Patencio of the Palm Springs Indians tells of hieroglyphics, on the south side of Twenty-nine Palms Valley, along the rock walls of the canyons are many of the sign painted figures that the Indian people all knew and understood.

At the time when Sungrey, one of the Five Head Men of the Fifth People, settled in the Twenty-nine Palms country, he left his people to go all about. Along the edges of the rock hills are the signs he made for his people. Some are paint signs, and some are cut in the rock. One place, called Coyote Holes on the map, the rock painting is very plain to see. The white people call this Coyote Holes, but they are not holes –no. The canyon is small and narrow, with a level sand wash floor. On entering the canyon there are on the left cliff, very plain to see, but very high, the first signs. All along the way are the sign marks. There are many of the snake sign, meaning water. Some are nearly faded away, but they have lasted through time–lasted as long as the Indians had use for them…

All about the canyon is the sign of Indian life. Parts of the broken rock, and bits of pottery. At one mile, perhaps a little longer, the canyon walls close. The way stops in a circle of bluffs, water-worn. In wet winters some waste water may make a fall in the end of this canyon, but not for long.

There is not any water to be seen there, no, none at all. There is no water for many miles up and down the valley from this place. But it is at the very end of this little canyon, in the dry white sand at the foot of the bluffs, that the coyotes come to dig. Always there is good cool water there. This gave the place the name of Coyote Holes, but all animals, men too, come to scoop out a shallow pool for the pure, sweet water…

Now these sign marks are very high in the cliff walls, but when they were first painted by the head men they stood on the ground to do it…they were very large men–very tall…but the ground is washed away during much time, until it is much lower than when the signs were made. And so does the ground get lower. Always, everywhere, all the time.” ~Stories and Legends of the Palm Springs Indians, by Chief Francisco Patencio, as told to Margaret Boynton, 1943.

 
I told Lilly she could a little climbing as we headed back down the wash.
 
Just past where Lilly is doing her gymnastics, you have this view down at the canyon. Very pretty!
 
Heading back down the canyon, I'm explaining to Lilly that you usually see petroglyphs clustered in the same area, and often facing the same direction. Which means we should look most closely on the east wall of the canyon (where we saw the petroglyphs as we were hiking in). At almost exactly that moment, Lilly points to the opposite wall of the canyon and says "Look, Papa, more petroglyphs!"  I felt pretty stupid. Here's a closer look. What a nice find!
 
As we near the end of our hike, photographer Lilly takes a photo of me in front of this cool little cave we find. I was so pleased that there were few if any signs of graffiti on the rocks. A huge THANK YOU to Friends of Coyote Hole, who have spent a tremendous amount of time cleaning up the area, and keeping it clean.
 
Almost back to the Jeep, we find this large paper bag bush (also called bladder sage). It's an unusual and interesting plant, with blue flowers and purple "bags" that surround the seeds. When the bags dry up and fall off the plant, they cover large areas of the ground. When the wind blows them, and the seed rattles around in the bag, they make an amazingly musical sound. The first time I heard it, I sat for a very long time, carefully listening, until I figured out what was making the sound!
 
Thanks for joining Lilly and I on our hike to Coyote Hole.
Linking with Skywatch Friday.
Stay safe & stay healthy!!
 

42 comments:

  1. Your granddaughter is following your footsteps and is rapidly becoming an intrepid explorer like you. You are really making some great memories of her.
    I hate to see graffiti around sites like Coyote Hole. What is wrong with people I wonder.

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  2. Your granddaughter Lily is the perfect helper and companion on your quest to see the petroglyphs at Coyote Hole. I like her cute and functional sun hat. The petroglyphs were interesting and very prolific! That must have been a very well used and important area for the natives.
    It's always sad to see graffiti and litter in a natural area. It happens here too. It makes me wonder why people would be so callous to do that? It's wonderful that those that care clean it up.

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  3. ...you sure do live in an amazing neck of the woods, it's great that you are able to share it with your sweet little partner and the rest of us. Thanks!!!

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  4. the idea of graffiti in places like this are depressing - wonderful photos as always

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  5. How nice you could share this with your granddaughter. Sooner or later, she's going to be able to keep up with some of your crazy hikes.

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  6. What an amazing place. Paper bag bush is a new one for me. Very interesting. Terrible how people will vandalize these sites.

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  7. Lilly is growing up and it must be so much fun to go hiking with her. I learned when I worked at the Donkey Rescue that burros also dig for water in the desert. All the photos are amazing and Lilly took a great one of you. So glad you didn't see a lot of graffiti. I remember how our hiking spot in the San Gabriel Mountains got completely ruined by idiots painting stuff everywhere. I've even seen graffiti here in the Tehachapi mountans. It's very annoying. But glad you had such a great hike with Lilly.

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  8. Good to see Lily again ~ what a beautiful young lady and 'Papa' is rather handsome himself ~ Great petroglyphs find and always gorgeous photos ~ thanks ^_^

    Live each moment with love,

    A ShutterBug Explores,
    aka (A Creative Harbor)

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  9. Amazing shots. Makes you wonder about the many people who have left their mark on these rocks over the generations. Finding something unexpected like that water stream is always fun.

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  10. Beautiful post and pics.
    Have a nice weekend.

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  11. Wow! Wonderful hike pictures. Enjoyed the narration as well.

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  12. I have to visit you more often! I enjoyed this post very much.
    I am not allowed to post pictures of my Nieces, and I would´ve loved them call the first one Lilly, such a beautiful name! She is as beautiful as yours but they named her Mia and I always think, "Mama Mia", so either it´s the musical or a pizza!
    When we were in Darwin we saw the Aboriginal art (and my, did the mossies eat me up!)

    I want to visit your country some time, too! Especially that area (we roamed the Aussie Outback for months back then, sleeping in the car and all, I miss this!).

    Thank you for showing and also giving me back these memories...

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  13. The cute little princess seems to have enjoyed her time a lot!

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  14. A wonderful post, Peter. Lilly will love these memories of being with her "Papa" on these adventures. I admire you for doing it and for the care you take in doing no harm to what's there.

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  15. Quite an informative walk and Lilly puts the size of the Pictographs in to perspective, they are larger that I thought.

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  16. If that tiny stream of water eroded the rocks away then the petroglyphs must be very old indeed, though I suspect at times a greater flow of water must have been present. All very fascinating and intriguing.

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  17. In this serie of photo's some plants are very nice and unusual. Especially the last photo and the one where you are looking down over the whole canyon.

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  18. Wonderful views of the Coyote Hole and the petroglyphs. It is great you and Lilly can take these hikes together. Lilly is a great photographer too. I am glad you did not see the graffiti. Great post and photos. Take care! Enjoy your day, wishing you a great weekend!

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  19. What a great way to create memories with Lilly. She will remember these days forever.

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  20. Thanks for the education. We 3 travelers have made it to the Salt Lake area. Hope we can make it to the Southern California area...
    Sherry, jack & JJ on the road from Layton Utah.

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  21. What great discoveries you and Lilly made as you walked in the wilderness!

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  22. Lilly must love these times with you. She took a great photo too. Love seeing this area. Just love it.

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  23. I finally had to ditch my hat. The humidity and heat here has made it too hot. I'd rather deal with the glare than the wet head. Of course, out there in the desert, as you say, you could probably stand a little more water. :-)

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  24. I always enjoy your posts and I love that Lilly is having this time with you. What an impression you are making on her and think of the memories she will have of this time!!

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  25. petroglyph hunt seems a good choice for a hike with a young explorer.

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  26. Fascinating to interpret what the drawings mean and why and how they were drawn.

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  27. So glad you didn't see any graffiti. I could never understand vandalism. Nice to see your G-daughter, Lily. What a neat partner. My grand-daughter who grew up in my and Papa's house was so much fun and my traveling partner. She is 26 now---oh my. Lives in Arizona following her dreams. I would like to hear the musical bladder seed pods.
    Yes it has been a warm summer for here. We had a dry Spring and a wet Jun and then dry dry dry. Hauling water to water--but oh well.

    MB

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  28. Interesting post. I am glad I tagged along on this virtual hike with you. Your granddaughter is going to be like you, loving the desert and she has sharp eyes to notice the petroglyphs high up on the rock.

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  29. Graffiti in places like that is a sacrilege. And should be punished by prison sentence. Mindset of some people..

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  30. How wonderful that you and Lilly can share in your adventures and has developed an appreciation for nature like you. I can see she makes a great companion and is also the perfect model. I love the shot of the valley below - extraordinary!

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  31. Lilly is so blessed to have a grandfather who introduces her to the sound of purple bags and Indian art and a "wee" bit of climbing. She too can take a photograph of you. Perhaps she will like photography too. So much in common. Enjoy!

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  32. That's a lot of petroglyphs in one area. What a great hike for you and Lilly. I had never heard of a paper bag bush before. I'd love to see one and hear that sound you described.

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  33. What a wonderful (and full of wonder!) hiking companion you have! And she’s looking so grown up — so fast. I’d love to hear the music of the bladder sage. Maybe you’ll capture it one day.

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  34. How sad that people don't respect the area with their graffiti, I've never heard of the paper bag bush either but it's so unique.

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  35. Interesting post. I wonder if ancient people considered the petroglyphs to be graffiti.

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  36. A post full of joy here! Petroglyphs make me happy and make me think (that’s a good thing at my age)... I’m so glad that the graffiti stuff seems to be a problem of the past .... it’s great to see Lily out hiking and learning with her Papa *and* even out-discovering him )) ... She’s a good photographer too!... I enjoyed reading the Chiefs memories of the area. I used to read Pat T’s blog but had lost track of it. I will check out those links.

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  37. Ah, you have a cute, pretty hiker with you this time. Really cool stuff out there. I love that you found quite a number of petroglyphs. It's my first time to see what a bladder sage look like. I learn new things from your post.

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  38. Of Course Your Post Is Righteous But Spending Time With Little L, Phuc-N Fantastic

    Good On You,
    Cheers

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  39. Again, I think, how blessed your granddaughter is to have a grandpa like you. She will remember these days her entire life. Loved this post, as usual. So cool! I'm a bit late in commenting because I've been having trouble commenting on some Blogger blogs. I get a strange message when I sent the comment (and it doesn't send) which I suspect is an issue with the Firefox browser. I was going to come back another day and then I never made it back. I hope my commenting works this time!

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